In the shadow of the Alps

Rhône-Alpes is a region
 not only overlooked by the French Alps, it’s also often overlooked by tourists and travellers.


I have a reoccurring dream. No, I’m not naked at work, falling, being chased by wild dogs, or shooting ridiculously slow bullets. (Actually that last one I seem to have often, but that’s beside the point.)

In this dream I’m wandering through a medieval village, it’s crumbling walls surrounded by fields of scarlet poppies. A river runs through its centre and old men sit in silence, hand rolled fags hanging from the corner of their mouths, eyes squinting from the smoke, their fishing lines dangling in hope. There’s a market on and the church bells chime, hastening the step of the locals seeking the freshest bread, cheese and berries. Suddenly a glamorous southern belle starts talking to me in rapid French, and her dog lunges at me and licks me in the face. Amid the slobbering I realise I’m at home and it’s actually my labrador trying to rouse me because she wants a walk, and I snap out of my fantasy, but that’s OK, I’ll return again soon enough.


There’s just something about central and southern France, and for those prepared to look beyond the allure of Bourgogne, the Loire Valley or Dordogne regions, Rhône-Alpes serves up everything you would expect, and all that you could wish for.

And so here we are again.


We base ourselves in the southern most department of Drôme, near the town of Dieulefit, about half way between Lyon and Marseilles. This part of Rhône-Alpes is quite rural, yet close enough to the charm of Saint-Rémy and Aix-en-Provence, and the glitz of the Cote D’Azur so as to not feel isolated. The towns are small, the mountains close and cathedrals plentiful. There are more castles and châteaux per square kilometre than just about anywhere on earth, each providing a close view of the next, and a distant view of more beyond.

After a hair-raising trip along a one way hilly rural road that I, to this day, blame on our baffled GPS, we find our accommodation in Truinas – a stone farmhouse now converted into three cottages draped in roses and vines, overlooked by a stunning springwater pool. Meals and drinks on the deck watching both sunrise and sunset over Le Drome valley won’t be forgotten in a hurry.


The roads and rivers continually wind, not satisfied with the tedium of straight lines, and our days are spent exploring, absorbing history, meeting and becoming acquainted with locals and travellers alike. The pursuit of produce is perpetual, and our evenings pass as such times with great friends and good wine should – filled with music, conversation and laughter.

Between expeditions to Nyons, Valreas and Salle-sous-Bois, we explore hilltop castles, forests of green and sample local specialities. The area is littered with comparatively affordable farmhouses and cottages in various states of need, and our eyes scour the windows of every real estate agent, while our minds needlessly whir with the logistics of currency conversion, plastering and plumbing.

Our host Jane’s knowledge of the region is superb and we cant seem to put a foot wrong following her wonderful scribblings, left in a variety of locations, like clues in some sort of gastronomic treasure hunt.


Our visit culminates in an unforgettable afternoon at a recommended restaurant (by both our host and the Michelin guide) in Vesc – Chez mon Jules – which serves up Rhône-Alpes on a plate: quirky, fresh, classy and decadent.

Run by a delightful couple who chose this rustic lifestyle over their previous Parisian existence, Chez mon Jules is exactly what we’re looking for to round off our week. Jules sources the best produce from local growers and works his magic in the small kitchen, whilst Alexandra serves and makes conversation (and jewellery!).


Lunch resembles a small specials list, with a mere two choices per dish. We start with a devine cold zucchini soup with a creamy foam (my first time!), and baguettes as fresh and light as the mountain air. Superb slow roasted pork belly on mash with seasonal vegetables follows, accompanied by some well chosen local wine. Chocolate soufflé with a dark ale rounds the meal off perfectly, yet we linger on the deck for hours, absorbing our surrounds, each of us procrastinating our inevitable departure.


Soon enough it’s time for an afternoon coffee and apertif, Alexandra spins her favourite Amy Winehouse record, and we are once again seduced by the coziness of this establishment and our hosts undeniable charm.


Finally we return to base, there’s neither time nor room for another meal, so we satisfy ourselves with a final glass of wine on the balcony while the sun sets in slow motion on the mountain scene before us.

On our final morning Jane’s farewell resembles her greeting – like we’re old friends – and we reluctantly leave to meet our next adventure.

Ate: Chez Mon Jules, Vesc. Details and bookings >>
: Salivet & La Sousto, Truinas, Drôme (Rhône Valley – Alps, France) Book >>

East London: Regent’s Canal


Many of London’s millions of annual visitors are returnees who can’t resist this great human magnet. For an original experience to compliment the usual stops at Buckingham Palace, the Tower of London, and Madam Tussauds, the seven kilometre eastern section of Regent’s Canal is a chance to view London with a fresh set of eyes.

Built in the early 1800s to link the northern waterways of London with the river Thames, vessels traversed London’s intricate system of canals carrying supplies such as timber, stone and coal for much of the next 150 years. By the 1960s however, increases in rail and road transport saw the canal’s importance as a carrier of freight evaporate. Neglected and ignored by all but the most rusted-on locals, the canals have been reinvigorated over recent years, attracting new residents, businesses and tourists, each looking to tap into the buzz of a growing hub of activity.


Unlike the more fashionable western part of the canal running through Kings Cross, Camden, and Regent’s Park, the appeal of the eastern passage lies not in the gleaming new apartment and office blocks that shadow it, but in the authenticity of its street art, grungy cafés and scores of colourful houseboats. Where pollution, rubbish and weeds once ruled, this part of the canal has become an important everyday space for exercise, relaxation, self-expression and commuting.

Today there are three ways to experience Regent’s Canal; on foot, by bike, in a water craft – or by a combination of the three. If you’re staying in central London, bikes can be hired at many locations across the city. If you don’t fancy the hair-raising ride through inner-London to reach the canal, multiple buses will take you to Angel Islington, close to several docking stations for the convenient hire and return of your bike.

The return trip is easily achieved in a day, and whether your vice is coffee, cake, shopping or beer, the canal’s activities cater to all.


There are many cafés along and near the canal’s banks; some serve coffee, tea and cake only, while others boast a full kitchen run by industry notables. Respected food writer Lori DeMori is the co-author of several Italian cookbooks, and opened Towpath (36 De Beauvoir Crescent, N15, near Whitmore Rd. bridge) four years ago to capture some of the commuter traffic. The café has since become a destination in itself. “We lived opposite and saw the number of people starting to use the canal” she said. “We thought, hey there’s an empty space there right on the water that we could convert.” Although seasonal (DeMori splits winter between Asia and Italy) fans now flock daily for the reliable coffee, decedent cheese toasties and evening activities, including spit-roasts, hearty rustic quiches, and pasta specials; often accompanied by musicians and mulled wine.


With a reputation as one of the leaders of the East End food movement, the exterior of Bistrotheque (23-27 Wadeson St, E2) could pass for a rubber factory or shoe warehouse, but concealed within is a culinary treasure from top to bottom. Downstairs is the moody private bar where they will host your function and happily serve you fabulously expensive cocktails or the best in craft beer. Upstairs you’ll find an appealing, open white space, interesting menu choices, and quality service with that touch of playfulness that only the best restaurants seem to pull-off. Enjoy brunch/lunch or dinner while a hung-over pianist shakes out the cobwebs with some slow Henry Mancini show tunes, before snapping to attention and belting out Amy Winehouses’ Rehab with a sudden burst of energy. The braised pork cheeks and duck fat chips will be remembered long after you’ve summoned the will to work them off.

There are many pubs along the route, but like elsewhere in the Empire, the number of places you can still order a good old toad-in-the-hole or smoked haddock is diminishing rapidly. The secret to British pub food lies in the history and atmosphere of the establishment itself – when else would visitors attempt to eat anything as disgusting sounding as black pudding, tripe or kidney pie if not without a pint of ale in an English pub?

‘Gastro pub’ The Narrowboat (119 St Peters Street, N1) has an extensive British inspired menu and serves brunch from 11am, then lunch and dinner daily. Sunday lunch is popular and booking is advisable. Plenty of worthy cask ales (unfiltered and unpasteurised) are available to try while looking out over the canal’s activities below.


The Rosemary Branch (Rosemary Gardens, Southgate Rd, N1) is a great stop for a Czech beer, simple meal or if you’re passing by late afternoon or evening, an upstairs show in the theatre. The live music and off-beat productions are as popular with locals as the famous Sunday roasts. During Saturday’s Broadway Market, The Dove (24-28 Broadway Market, E8) is teeming with life but it’s still worth a stop for a Belgian ale or hearty stew. On a cold day you’ll find lots of little spaces to relax inside, even better if you can get a table outside in the sun from which to observe the passing human traffic. The Palm Tree (127 Grove Rd, E3) is conveniently situated on the banks of the canal at Mile End. Enjoy a game of darts and one of the regularly rotated ‘guest’ beers.


A lazy afternoon houseboat cruise is an outstanding way to breathe in the ambience of the canal and its surroundings. Duck your head as you pass under low bridges, and avoid seduction by the boat’s cry of freedom. Many a casual daytrip has ended in an exchange of ownership papers. Royden Mayfield, an ‘Aussie-Kiwi’ on an extended visit to the UK to be close to family was one such case. “My wife and I hired a houseboat for a month, just to see what it was like” he recalled. “One day the thing wouldn’t start, and a helpful local boat owner came to the rescue. We admired his custom built craft, and by day’s end, we’d bought it!”

If that sounds like too great a commitment for you, the London Canal Museum (12-13 New Wharf Road, N1 operate short trips, while the Bow Boat Company (Bow Lock, Gillender St, E3 offers half day, full day or custom tours.

For a unique perspective, London Kayak Tours ( will team you up with a British Canoe Union instructor, and guide you through the canal’s maze with a paddle, and a glass of bubbles.

If you prefer to keep your feet firmly planted on land, London Walks ( offer ‘Islington to Mile End’ walking tours with a knowledgeable local who will highlight points of interest, such as the locks and moorings, and give insight into the waterway’s history.



From City road, Duncan Terrace Gardens is a logical starting point. Head eastward along the northern shore of the canal, noting the combination of towering council flats, warehouses and high-rise residences. Waterfowl of various size and colour will follow, and converge if you display any sign of offering a nibble.

This stretch of the canal features plenty of street art, and although his ongoing feud with the followers of the graffiti artist known as ‘King Robbo’ usually results in his pieces being swiftly defaced, Banksy’s art has been known to grace the canal’s walls and undersides of bridges.

Although easy to miss, within a minute or two you will come across The Pumphouse Café, tucked neatly in the cavernous old lock station building opposite City Rd Basin, serving a range of hot beverages and treats.

Check out the art in the Proud Archivist (2-10 Hertford Road, N1), a bright space just off the Kingsland Rd specialising in brunch, dinner, coffee and cocktails. Recent exhibitions included the fabulous Gathering Storm – The Album Art of Storm Thorgerson, featuring artwork that ensured the familiar cover images of Pink Floyd, Black Sabbath, Peter Gabriel and Led Zeppelin LPs have been laser etched into our consciousness.


Foodie heaven Broadway Market is on every Saturday from 9am until 5pm – although some cafes open earlier – and there are usually several coffee stands, as well as multiple options for bread, pastries and cheese. For those who fancy something more substantial, choose from a plate of spicy dahl, German sausage with sauerkraut, or piping hot roast hog roll.

Work off morning tea or lunch with a lap or two of the scenic Victoria Park, or if you’re still in need of sustenance, enjoy an organic juice, hot tea, or veggie fry up on sourdough from the Pavilion Café while you feed the ducks.

Whether its summer or winter, at this point in your journey you’re bound to be thirsty. If you somehow managed to resist the charm of The Crown (223 Grove Road, E3) as you passed, nip into The Palm Tree for a British bitter and classic London pub experience.

Continue along the path as it meanders south towards the Thames, discovering the Ecology Park in Mile End Park, followed by the Terraced Garden and fountain of nearby Millennium Park.

By now you’re either spent of energy or full of beer, so it’s time to return along the path, or jump on either the tube at Mile End, or one of many buses that will take you to central London along Mile End Road. If you have a London bike to return, there are two docking stations within a hundred metres.


Regent’s Canal east can be accessed from Angel Islington, – a short trip from central London via the Tube, buses 73 and 30 from Marble Arch, 38 from Piccadilly or 341 from the Strand.


The Hilton Islington is within close walking distance of Regent’s Canal. Rooms start at $250 a night.


There are hundreds of hire and deposit stations across inner London. You will need a credit or debit card to receive a bicycle release code. Up to four bikes can be hired at once. Access is £2 per hire, and trips under 30 minutes are free. A three hour hire will cost £15, and six hours will set you back £35.  See for more information.

The ultimate sports safari: USA

Is it possible to round the bases of the ‘big four’ professional US sports without moving to the states and applying for a ‘Green card’? US sports authority Derek Green leads us on a three week tour de force of bats, balls, pucks and hoops.

Just like us Aussies, Americans take their sports seriously, so seriously in fact, that they have been known to award the title ‘World Champions’ to their winners, along with a silver trophy the size of a small car. How they must chuckle at the sight of the Ashes.

Although difficult, this challenge is technically possible – the regular season schedules don’t quite cross over – but like a solar eclipse, there is a brief moment where all four will slide into alignment. The ideal time to attempt this trip is from mid-October to early November. The north-east coast has the highest density of sports teams, and as New York City provides the easiest access to the region, it is a logical landing point and base. The weather is turning for the worse – snow is not unheard at this time – but with Thanksgiving imminent and Christmas looming, the short days and crisp nights are accompanied by an air of festivity. For the sports nut prepared to buy into the concept of an ultimate US sports odyssey, let’s break down the options.



The first stop is also the trickiest box to tick. The Major League Baseball (MBL) regular season finishes at the end of September, and with the ‘post season’ well under way by the time our itinerary starts around the second weekend of October, success is somewhat reliant on the teams involved in the playoffs and their location. A popular team or one off the beaten track can spell doom. Tickets to the World Series are tough to obtain, so visitors should aim for one of the two league championship series held prior. With a minimum two home and two away games per team (dead rubbers are not played), it is rare that one of the four participating championship teams is not within easy reach of New York, and tickets, though expensive, are obtainable through means both fair and foul.


Whereas you could be excused for dozing off in the bleachers after a couple of Budweiser’s on a warm July afternoon, when the play-offs start, the casual air and Wonder Years feel of ‘America’s Game’ are blowtorched in a high stakes battle of network ratings, eight-figure player contracts and endorsements, stadium deals and intercity bragging rights. Higher television ratings dictate that post season games are almost exclusively held at night, but the smell of cool grass, popcorn, beer, and hot dogs mix with the evening autumn air to create an intoxicating brew.

Introduce yourself to your neighbours; Americans love to explain the game, its rules, the role it plays in their life and the virtues of their team. Before you know it you’ll be sharing a beer and a sack of nuts, expertly tossed across 30 rows by a skilled vendor, and yelling “charge” in time with the arena organ.

GAME SUGGESTION: Given the New York Yankees and Boston Red Sox have participated in eight of the last ten National League championship series, the chances are good that you won’t have to venture far.

EXPERT TIP: Although more expensive, try for a lower-level seat in the region of first base. Much of the action takes place in this part of the field, and the fans are usually friendly and knowledgeable season-ticket holders.


American Football

“Cricket is a gentleman’s game played by gentlemen, rugby is a gentleman’s game played by beasts, and American Football is a beast’s game played by beasts.”

Although this quip appears in various guises and its source is unknown, it has been attributed to everyone from Winston Churchill to Oscar Wilde. Coupled with an apparent lack of rules, this sentiment is evident to the novice viewer, even more so when watching some of the great rivalries of the sport. Few games are contested with the bitterness of the closely matched, (both geographically and on the field) traditionally working-class, ‘meat and potato’ towns of Cleveland, Pittsburgh, Cincinnati and Baltimore. In these divisional clashes, boos and bottles will swiftly rain on an unsportsmanlike visiting outfit, or during a poor home team performance.


Unlike the other three of the ‘big four’ professional sports, football is not an everyday event, with the NFL scheduling regular season fixtures on Thursday, Sunday and Monday of each week. By mid-October, all teams are six weeks into their 16 game seasons, and the race for divisional titles and play-off seeds starts to take shape. With so few games played – each city’s team will host a mere eight games a year – each becomes an event in itself. Even if you can’t stand the sport, the pre-game festivities, stadium rock tunes and general mayhem throughout make for a memorable day.

GAME SUGGESTION: There are five teams within a two or three hour train or bus journey of the Big Apple. For a near guaranteed home team win with plenty of atmosphere and a leafy, scenic round trip, take the option of the New England Patriots at home in Foxboro, Massachusetts. Otherwise New York’s two teams, the Jets and Giants, will host matches that are equally entertaining for those who attend, as it is for those who opt to read the savaging handed out by the fickle local media.

EXPERT TIP: The best views are to be had from mid-field or the ‘end zone’. Arrive early and mingle with locals in the car park, trying to make friends with some of the many ‘tail-gaters’ before the game. An Australian accent is a great conversation starter, and before long you’ll be eating hot corn cobs and Buffalo wings in-between ‘going deep’ for a ‘Hail Mary’ in a parking lot scratch match.



Madison Square Gardens (MSG). Three words are all you need to tell you where you should be when the New York Knicks campaign starts in this hallowed edifice. Giant banners of the team’s current stars greet you in the foyer, and the smell of nacho cheese and grilled sausage hangs in the air like a mid-town fog. Tickets at MSG are expensive, and the upper level fans are boisterous, bordering on boorish, which is surprising given that this is possibly the least physical of the pro sports. The excitement factor is high early in the season, making for a true adventure as you delve into the psyche of hard core Manhattan sports fans.


GAME SUGGESTION: With the recent relocation of the New Jersey Nets to nearby Brooklyn, the Knicks are no longer the only New York team. This rivalry can only get hotter.

EXPERT TIP: If you can get your hands on a pair of binoculars, apart from a better perspective of the game, you’ll have the chance to spy some of the celebrities who have the cash to splash on courtside ‘Celebrity Row’ seats, including regulars Spike Lee, Ben Stiller, Woody Allen, Whoopi Goldberg and Chris Rock.


Speaking of hard core, this week also marks the start of hockey season. There are three teams in the New York area; the Rangers, Islanders, and Devils, with games played at Madison Square Gardens, in Brooklyn, Queens, and over in Newark, New Jersey. As you might expect, the crowd can be rowdy, and will hurl abuse at players, referees and opposition fans with little provocation – it’s hard not to get caught up in the emotion as spot fires break out on and off the field. The game moves quickly, and only the trained eye finds it easy to follow, particularly from the upper deck. Try to focus on the puck as it shoots across the ice, ignoring the players, unless they are involved in one of the inevitable (and occasionally brutal) scuffles the game is famous for.


GAME SUGGESTION: Once again, MSG is a great venue to watch this sport, and the three New York area teams play each other often, each leaving nothing out on the ice. Likewise games featuring teams visiting from Philadelphia, Boston or Pittsburgh pack enough heat to melt the ice. If you decide to travel further afield, the animosity between fierce foes Boston and Montreal or Detroit and Chicago rarely remains subdued.

EXPERT TIP: Early November in New York is already quite chilly, but with all that ice, you will need additional layers to keep yourself snug.



There are three ways to obtain tickets for a sports event; direct from the team or venue, from a ticket re-seller website, or if you’re desperate (although not recommended), from a scalper outside the stadium before the game. StubHub, SeatGeek and TicketExchange all sell returned or unwanted game tickets online which are then either posted to you or can be printed if you have access to a printer.


While Brooklyn offers cheaper accommodation options, nothing beats waking up each morning to the bustle of Manhattan. The Windsor Hotel, Pod 51 and Chelsea Lodge consistently rate well in the $200-300 per night price range.


Train is an affordable, convenient way to branch out into Philadelphia, Washington, Baltimore, and Boston – all within three hours – but beyond that, a hire car is advisable. Hertz, Avis, and Enterprise all have offices in Manhattan. The subway is cheap and easy for journeys across the city and its boroughs, and yellow cabs are still a thrill for short trips.


To get hooked up with the latest apparel, try the official NBA (590 Fifth Ave) or NHL (1185 Avenue of the Americas) stores. For NFL or MBL merchandise, Modell’s or Sports Authority are found in multiple locations and carry most teams and sports.

Classic Paris: A day trip from London?


Before the Channel Tunnel opened in 1994, London to Paris and back in a day was out of the question for all but millionaires, politicians, and airline crew. With the 20th anniversary of the Eurostar on the horizon and improved traveller services, faster tracks, and advance purchase specials, a day trip is becoming increasingly attractive to the time-poor visitor.

For those visiting England this year, the additional time and expense involved in a dedicated trip to France may not fit all schedules or budgets. Now you can unleash your inner Clark Griswold and take some pleasure in a day crammed with culture, history and fromage. Depending on your preferences you can either extend or drop any of the sites described in this suggested itinerary.

5.40 am – Depart London

The first scheduled service from St Pancras International rumbles off toward the coast bright and early. Assuming you’ve already printed off your boarding pass, you’ll still need to arrive at least 30 minutes beforehand to grab a pain-au-chocolat and double-shot latte, then run the gauntlet of barriers; a security scan, UK passport control and French customs – quite similar to those you might encounter in an international airport (without the confiscation of liquids).

6.35 am – The Tunnel

The darkness of the tunnel lasts about 20 minutes. If you’re squeamish about descending into a 50km tube under the sea, just breathe and imagine you’re on a night train. This may also be a good time to run through your itinerary, and check the routes linking the sites on the map. Surfacing in French territory at Coquelles, near Calais, set your watch forward an hour to account for the difference in time-zone. The country side is picturesque; agricultural with small medieval villages interspersed with factories and warehouses servicing the megalopolis Paris has become. Take a good look, as it will be dark when you return.

9.17am – Arrive Paris Gare du Nord

As all customs and immigration requirements were handled in London, you’re free to walk off the train and straight into the streets of Paris. Exit the platform and follow the signs on the left, down the stairs to the Paris Metro. Find a quiet ticket machine and buy a one day ‘Visite Pass’, valid for zones 1-3 of inner city Paris. Don’t be afraid to take your time and stand your ground if a busy Parisian starts to grumble behind you. All metro routes are marked by colour and number, and the direction the train will travel is identified by the route’s final station at either end. Get the magenta metro line (4) in the direction of Port De Clignancourt.


9.30 am – Montmartre

This is a logical first stop as it’s close to Gare du Nord, and is a more enjoyable experience before the inevitable daily crowds converge. Most visitors approach via the Metro stations Pigalle and Abesses, but for a different perspective of ‘Le Butte’ exit at Metro Chateau Rouge. It’s a quicker trip from Gare Du Nord, and there’s no metro change required. Walk west up the quiet but appealing Rue Poulet and Rue Muller. Resist the cute café’s if you’re able and ascend the trademark Montmartre steps, emerging in front of the magnificent Sacré-Cœur. This route also avoids the hordes of pushy touts at the foot of the steep, meandering gardens.

9:40 am – Sacré-Cœur

The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris provides one of the most spectacular views of the city. On weekends, the talented and highly organised buskers start early, so take a seat on the famous steps and enjoy the comic mimes, musicians, and the amazing soccer acrobat who entertain millions each year. The cathedral’s interior features a beautiful mosaic, accompanied by an air of peace. It’s a place of worship, so keep your visit short unless you have arranged time to join the tour to the Basilica’s dome via the 234 step spiral-staircase.


10:15 am – Place du Tertre

Follow your nose into Montmartre village via the western wing of the Basilica, and plant yourself under the awning for a coffee at Au Cadet de Gascogne, watching the artists set up for the day as tourists spill into the narrow cobbled streets like Pampolonians fleeing the running of the bulls. Push on against the flow along Rue Norvins past the postcardesque Le Consulat and start your descent.

11:00 am – Moulin Rouge

Follow the worming Rue Le Pic down through Amelie territory, blending in with the locals going about their business. Look out for the wall marker on the left at number 54 which indicates the former residence and studio of Vincent van Gogh (1886 – 1888). Stop in at Les Fromages De Marie for picnic lunch supplies of fresh baguette, cheese and olives, and if your arteries can stand it, a ‘crosssausageroll’ – you guessed it, a traditional flaky croissant wrapped around a smoky Andouille sausage. At best, it’s a decadent treat you will surely work off over the course of the day, at worst it will seem like a good idea at the time. At the bottom of Rue Le Pic you’ll find the celebrated Moulin Rouge. Take your photos, then jump on the blue (2) metro line at Blanche, heading in the direction of Porte Dauphine.

11:30am – Arc de Triomphe

Periscope up from the metro at Charles de Gaulle – Étoile, taking a moment to absorb the barely organised traffic chaos that swirls around the Place Charles de Gaulle, admiring the combination of skill and daring displayed by Parisian motorists. The Arc de Triomphe is best appreciated up close and accessed by underground tunnel from Avenue de la Grande Armee on the western side of the monument. Feel the smooth limestone and hold your fingers in place long enough to let some of the Arc’s 200-plus years of history seep in. Spreading eastward is a classic slice of old Europe; the Champs-Élysées. Broad and tree-lined, this popular boulevard, now dominated by restaurants, designer chains and mobile phone outlets has seen its fair share of celebrities, dignitaries and dictators. Return to the metro and take the teal (6) line heading in the direction of Nation, alighting at Bir-Hakeim.

12:45 pm – Eiffel Tower

For the efficient traveller who has bought into the Paris-in-a-day concept, this stop poses the greatest threat to the success of the day. Queuing to climb the tower starts early, and factors such as the weather, time of year and efficiency of the French attendants to shuffle tourists along on any given day will all affect the line’s length. Purchase a ticket online and print it at home to save time. On a busy day, the stairs (rather than the elevators) to the second level are your best chance to witness one of the world’s truly wonderful city views.

Champ De Mars is a perfect a spot to eat your well-deserved picnic lunch. When you’re done, Metro École Militaire is a short walk along Place Joffre. Take the lavender (8) line in the direction of Créteil – Préfecture to Concorde metro station.


2:15 pm Musee L’Orangerie

Walk towards the river along the east wall of the Place de la Concorde, enter the grand park gates and follow the rise up and around to Musee L’Orangerie, This low key gallery is one of Paris’s favourites. The two oval-shaped rooms featuring Monet’s permanent Water Lilies murals are a tranquil place to sit and catch your breath while devoting a few moments out of your busy day to personal reflection.

3:15 pm Jardin des Tuileries

If the sun’s out, find a reclined chair and feed the ducks while eating an ice cream from the concession stand. Continue east through the gardens to the Louvre.


3:30 pm – Musée du Louvre

It’s unrealistic to expect to see the entire Louvre collection in a short visit, so hire the audio guide (note that all plaques are in French) and choose a manageable highlights package depending on your artistic preferences. The ‘Masterpieces’ tour includes Venus de Milo, the Mona Lisa and French classic Raft of the Medusa, and is comfortably achievable in 60-75 minutes.

5:15 pm – Cathédrale Notre Dame

A 15 minute walk along the north bank of the Seine is the most practical way to reach the famed cathedral. Lean against the statue of the infamous ‘Father of Europe’, Charlemagne and take in the detail in the stone masonry of Notre Dame’s western façade. Entry is free, and on a lucky day you might quietly slip into a pew and hear the amazing acoustics at work during an organ recital.

5:45 pm – Left Bank bookstalls

The Seine Left Bank has hosted bookstalls along the nearby stretch of Quai de Montebello for centuries. Selling publications in French, English and other languages, the Bouquinistes generally close at dusk. Cross the Pont au Double bridge from Notre Dame, and take the opportunity to check out the Shakespeare and Company book shop on the way.

6:00 pm – Latin Quarter

There are many cute restaurants in the back streets of the Latin Quarter, equally charming on a warm spring evening or when lit up on a chilly winter’s night. Rue de la Harpe is close and has many options for a quick meal that somehow doesn’t feel rushed.


7:15 pm Seine night cruise

A river cruise is a must at any time of year. Enjoy old jazz and the rush of cool air as you pass under the ancient stone bridges in summer, or pass around a sneaky bottle of red while your vessel’s spotlight searches out frozen lovers mid-embrace during the colder months. Cruises are generally one hour and start at 10 euros. Several operators depart from the Left Bank stretch between the bridges Petit Pont and Pont de’lArcheveche.

8:30 – Metro to Garde du Norde

Jump on the metro at St-Michel, and take the magenta line (4) in the direction of Porte de Cligancourte to Garde du Norde.

9:13 pm – Depart Paris

If all goes to plan you’ll arrive with about half an hour to negotiate security and immigration for your return trip. Slump into your chair and let the Eurostar do the rest, remembering to wind your watch back an hour when you touch British soil.

10:43 pm – Arrive London



The Eurostar can be booked and paid for online at Return prices start at $125 for an advance purchase, non-flexible fare.

A single day Paris Metro ticket is valid for zones 1-3 on both metro and local buses and costs about $20 AU.


A map of inner-Paris – better still a smart phone with a map app – and good comfortable walking shoes.


Captivating in either light or dark, Paris is one of those rare cities that can work its magic any time of the year, though the summer months bring crowds, long lines and short fuses. A visit either side of the June to September period may reward you with the best of both worlds; warm weather and far less jostling. Conversely, don’t get caught out in the middle of winter without your woollies and an umbrella; it can often feel like the sun barely breaks above the horizon in Europe.

The loneliness of the long distance blogger


You may have noticed I haven’t added to this blog much lately. We’ll, I’m concentrating on print at the moment, and in the meantime, the ‘good’ stuff just doesn’t make it on here, as its usually being pitched to some magazine editor that checks their email once a year, before sending out an automated response informing that they have either gone on sabbatical or maternity leave, or both. Alas, apart from not being able to cannibalise my own material when offering exclusivity, this has taken up all my remaining time.

Not that what you’re reading now is necessarily the chaff, its just that lately life has become a constant quest for the perfect ‘angle’. No I haven’t taken up billiards. Its just that unless one traipses off to live with the Yanomami people in the lower Amazon, or goes wind-surfing in Afghanistan, or hot air ballooning on the moon, every destination, site and activity you can conceive of (and every prose that can describe it), has already been turned over, trodden on and basically flogged to death. And if its anywhere in America, there’s already a car park, soda machine, top-notch A/C, and guidance from cheery volunteers with badges that display names like “Marvin” and “Doris”.

So here’s where the angles come in. If you have a really good angle, you can still re-discover anywhere and write about anything. So I’m enjoying trying to get under the skin of wherever I am, thinking about different ways to get there, eat there, and be there.

Maybe that’s not a bad angle from which to approach life anyway.